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     SAR DOG HANDLERS ©

img1.gifBy

gardpatch02.gif    Vi Hummel Carr

     K-9 Specialty Detection 

This article is straight - forward on the topic of Search and Rescue dog training.  It addresses some issues that other articles may not.  Its intent is to help you understand what being involved in this field is about... to aid you in avoiding some of the pit-falls that many have fallen into.  It is to help you see the challenges and learning that exist for both dog and handler.  There are so many excellent Search and Rescue dog handlers in the SAR community throughout the world.  Hopefully, this article will assist you in recognizing those true professionals.   Search and Rescue work is a Team effort and success involves many people!  There is no room for egos in search work!

Studying, Training and Learning never stop.  Although I have been involved in search and rescue since 1991 and have worked with both dogs and the training of lions, tigers, dolphin, etc. (formally and informally) for over 40 years ... I have learned how much there is to learn and how much more I need to learn.  That desire should never cease.   If you feel this field is for you then “welcome” - and be prepared for a hard-working but exciting and rewarding journey  “... so that others may live.”

 

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It takes at least one year (sometimes two) of intense training, in one discipline, before a dog is consistent and reliable enough to be trusted with the task of a real mission.  Someone’s life may depend on it!   It is not just the training of a dog...the Handler also has much to learn.  First-time Search Dog Handlers, who believe they and their dogs are “mission ready” after only a few months are a danger to themselves and others.  Glory Seekers, Ambulance Chasers (those who self-deploy) and Untruthful Handlers and Teams are not only a danger but a disgrace to the SAR community.

 

PART I

 

A SEARCH DOG HANDLER SHOULD HAVE --

 

*HONESTY - truthfulness, honorable in principles, intentions and actions - trustworthy:

 

   Do not exaggerate your capabilities, qualifications or experience.

   Do not lead the authorities to believe you have a wonder dog.

   Know your limitations and be truthful about them.

  Anything you say you and your dog can do or have done should be verifiable.

 

*INTEGRITY  -  doing what’s right even though no one is watching. Adherence to moral and ethical principles.

 

*CONFIDENTIALITY - is of utmost importance.  You should never discuss a case 

with anyone without the approval of the agency. Whatever agency calls you or your team out (Law Enforcement or Fire Dept.) is in charge of the search.  You are there to assist. 

It is not your job  to “take over” nor is it your job or your business to talk to the media.

 

*ETHICS - No team should show up on a scene (self-deploy) without the official request or approval of the agency in charge of the search.  Credible, well-trained teams know this is not acceptable and are aware of the problems this can create.  If your services are not requested  don’t go!

 

*REPUTATION - is all a person really has.

 

*PHYSICAL AND EMOTIONAL FACTORS:  The Handler must be physically capable to work for hours in the field.  Whether you work in a wilderness or urban environment, each possesses its own dangers, obstacles and challenges.  The dog and Handler must be capable of working for extended periods of time, regardless of the terrain.  The Team must also work in inclement weather.  Many searches occur under the worst weather conditions and it is common to be called out in the middle of the night.  

 

The Handler must also be prepared for the emotional/psychological aspect of searching and what they may encounter during the search, including the condition of the victim if found.  Not all searches have happy endings.  There are the unresolved searches where the victim is never found. There are searches where the victim is found but is deceased and there are searches where the victim is found alive but in critical condition and dies a short time later. 

 

Vi Hummel Carr -Briefing on Basics-Part 1ăCopyright 1997  Dublin Texas

 

*FAMILY AND FINANCIAL ASPECTS OF SAR WORK:  Search and Rescue work requires time...and a lot of it.  Whatever your position is in SAR, it will require continual training and personal commitment for as long as you are involved.  It will mean time away from your family if they are not also involved in search and rescue.  Time away may mean missing holidays or special occasions because you are needed on a search.  Search and Rescue work is not a hobby or a pass-time it is a way of life.

 

Being involved in Search and Rescue has a financial commitment also.  All members are volunteers.  All members pay for their own training, equipment, dogs, uniforms, travel, etc.  Most SAR personnel spend an average of $2,000 per year on SAR related expenses and that is a conservative figure. 

 

*SEARCH TEAMS:  Meet with the different search and rescue teams in your area.  

Consider their ethics, philosophies, written standards, training practices and so forth.  Inquire if you can attend a team meeting and also a training. Learn of their reputation and decide if you would like to be a part of that organization.  Some teams conduct background checks on prospective members.  Many teams have a probationary periods before someone is considered a member.  You also have the right to check out the team.  You may decide you’d rather drive a couple of hours to be a part of a different organization further away. 

 

INSTRUCTORS AND “TRAINING DIRECTORS”: Some team “training directors” receive that title simply because they are the one on the team who knows the most about dogs.  It does not necessarily mean they have comprehensive training, knowledge or experience with search dogs. There are also many so-called “experts” out there. Learn the honest credentials and qualifications of the “instructor.” Find out who taught them and how long they’ve been in search and rescue and training/working search dogs, etc.

 

The Search Dog Training Instructor should have vast knowledge and experience in working and training Search and Rescue dogs.  People who have experience training dogs in obedience, AKC events, Shutzhund, Agility, etc., should still have extensive training and experience in search and rescue and actually working search dogs before they classify themselves as a SAR Dog Instructor.   Please note: Most national seminars are comprised of several speakers and/or instructors and a variety of search related topics. A three-day or even week-long seminar does not constitute “extensive training or education."   In addition, it is wise to find out if the organization conducting the seminar has verified the training, claims and credentials of the instructors they are using.  This includes the credentials of the instructors of the sponsoring organization itself.  It is your time and money that is being spent.  It is you and your dog that may be effected.

 

Vi Hummel Carr -Briefing on Basics-Part 1ăCopyright 1997 Dublin Texas

 

There are many right ways to train a search and rescue dog but there are also some training methods that are just plain wrong.  Listen to what someone tells you and what different instructors say.... Think....  Ask Questions.... Do your own Research.  Ask yourself - does what is being said make sense?

 

 

Vi Hummel Carr -Briefing on Basics-Part 1ăCopyright 1997  Dublin Texas

BRIEFING ON BASICS - PART II

 

 

*K9 SEARCH DISCIPLINES  - Decide what the Primary Discipline for your dog will be.  Let your dog help you decide by watching what they excel in...Air Scent, Trailing or Tracking.  All other disciplines are built around Air Scenting principles. E.g., Article Search, Disaster Search, Water Search, Cadaver Search, etc.  Please note:  All these

disciplines require lengthy, additional studying and training in a host of subjects.

 

 *TRAINING IS “TRAINING” AND TESTING  IS “TESTING."  You should know where your “victim” is 85 to 90% of the time.  This will enable you to focus on your dog’s body language and the way your dog works out the problem. It will also help you to be more cognizant of the wind, the terrain and obstacles, and how they may deflect or collect scent.  You can then learn to adjust your search strategy based on the ambient conditions, terrain and what your dog is doing, to help them work out the problem. If you don’t know where the “victim” is in training you can’t appropriately encourage your dog or correct your dog.  However, periodically you should  work “blind” problems - these will help you build confidence in yourself and your dog.   Set up realistic problems and train as you will work.  Develop scenarios for your training problems.

 

*Do Not Rush Your Dog - There is no “fast” way to train your dog. Training should consist of small steps, each is a building block to a strong foundation.  Consistency and repetition in training are key elements.  Do not rush your dog or  add new elements to a problem until your dog is solid in one area.  When you do  introduce something new, add only one thing at a time and lighten up on other areas until  the dog is ready for the combination of elements.  E.g., (in trailing)  If your dog  has reached the level of doing one mile, 3 hour old problems with three turns - don’t  give them a two-mile, 24-hour old problem with 6 turns all at the same time.  Increase only one element at a time.  In Air Scenting, if your dog has never worked a night problem or an unresponsive victim, don’t combine both in the same problem.  Wait until the dog is proficient in one of the scenarios.

 

Prior to each training decide what you are going focus on  that day with your dog.  Set up your problems to achieve that goal and take the wind and terrain into consideration.  Don’t try a variety of new situations in one day.  Stick to one element and stay with that element until your dog is solid with it.  In your training, don’t start a new discipline until your dog is consistent in its primary one.  E.g., Don't start your dog in Air Scenting live “victims” one day, then do Trailing the following week, then switch to Article Search and so forth.  Focus.

  

Vi Hummel Carr -Briefing on Basics-Part IIăCopyright 1997  Dublin Texas

If you start becoming frustrated with your dog it’s time to put him up.  No big fanfare...not angrily not happily...just with a neutral attitude put your dog back in his crate or in your vehicle.

 

*Don’t Be Afraid - of taking a step or two backward in training for a period of time.  

Sometimes it’s even necessary to go back to kindergarten for a day or two regardless how far along you are in your training.  Reinforce what you and your dog have learned.  Dogs have bad days just like people and remember “Poop runs down the lead."  If you are having a bad day you can transmit your emotions to your dog.

 

*TRAINING LOGS:  Training Logs are essential. Don’t complete a training log and file it away.  Review it immediately. Look at a diagram of your search area, wind direction, obstacles, terrain and points where your dog indicated scent or had a problem.  Maybe you can determine why your dog did what it did, where it did it,  so this will become second nature to you on actual searches.  There are some instances, however, where you will not be able to figure out why your dog reacted in a certain way.  Although great strides are taking place in scent work research it is still somewhat of a mystery.  

Your training logs should be truthful and not always reflect a perfect dog.  If your dog had a problem - address it (but don’t get too detailed).  Make sure your next few training logs shows you have worked on that issue.

 *You and your dog are a TEAM - that is you BOTH must contribute to the search effort.  Don’t leave everything up to your dog!

 

*THE CHOICE OF WORDS:  Does “come” mean “come to me” or “toward me”?  Do you say “come on - let’s go”?  Does your dog think you’re saying “come to me - go away”?  Some will say “My dog is smart - he knows what I mean.”  True - but in the beginning why complicate the issue? 

 

Can you see scent??   Never tell your dog to “leave it” unless you are 110% sure there is not and could not be any human scent at that spot. If you give the “leave it” command and there was scent there you have just told your dog that what he was doing was wrong.  A simple “get to work,”  “you got something?” or “lets go” will work better than the reprimand of “leave it."

 

Vi Hummel Carr -Briefing on Basics-Part IIăCopyright 1997  Dublin Texas

 

Praise vs. Encouraging Words - Do you say “Good boy” or “Good girl” when your dog does (or completes) the behavior you want (find the victim.)?  If so, it’s wise to use something else as encouraging words rather than your “final praise” word.  Consider your tone of voice when praising, encouraging and correcting.  When you know your dog is on the scent and trying to work out the problem, use words like “that’s it” or “atta boy."  That is telling the dog “you’re doing good but not quite there yet."  “Good Boy” or  “Good Girl” may be telling the dog you believe he’s completed the job.

 

*REWARDS - The reward should be something your dog  just loves (not something you want them to have)!  Try many things, both food and play toys.  Once you find one or two, give them ONLY as the reward for making a find. Is praise enough to be the only reward for your dog?  My feelings are a strong no!   You reward your dog with praise for many things.  Why should the dog consider it special for making a find?  You need to have something else!  Also, use a variable reward system.  Sometimes they get a good deal of food (or play) and tons of praise; other times they get only a little and some praise.  They shouldn’t get the “mother lode” every time. But remember, there is more to search work than just working a dog.  So whatever area of search and rescue you chose to participate in, whatever discipline you train your dog in ...The Quality Should Go In Before The Name Goes On!